Improvement in adjustable patterns for garments



- U. L. WEBSTER. Adjustable Patterns for Garments.

No. 200,234. Patented Feb. 12,1878.

WITNESSES:

UN nSTAr-Es PATENT," UFFICE.

URSULA LfwEBsTER, on ivnwnAvnm-oounnorrour.

IMPROVEMENT IN A DJUSTABLEPATTERNS'}FOR GARMENTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 200,234, dated February 12, 1878; application filed I January 11, 1878.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, U sULA'LoInsE WEB STER, of New Haven, in 'the county of New Haven and State of Oonn ecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Outting Garments; and I do hereby declarethe following to be a full, clear, and exact description. of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to. which it pertains to make and use it, reference beinghad to the accompanying drawings,which form part of this specification. l

My invention relates to an improvement in adjustable patterns for cutting garments for ladies; and it consists in the arrangement of devices whereby the various parts can be adjusted to cut different-sized garments, as will be more fully described hereinafter.

There are a number of modifications on the same principleone for ladies garments, one for gentlemens garments, and one for childrens garments; but it will be seen that the same1 principle and general arrangement exist in a1 The object is to save time in cutting garments, and to make a complete fit to the person after they are sewed together.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents a pattern for cutting the front of ladies garments. Fig. 2 represents a patternfor cuttingthe back of ladies garments. Fig. 3 represents a pattern for cutting the sleeve of ladies garments.

My improved patterns for cutting out ladies garments may be described as follows, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

Front: In Fig 1, a is a straight strip in the pattern, forming the center of the breast of the garment, with a scale on the upper end. I)

is a guide attached to a, to receive the chestrule 0, which also has a scale, and slides freely into b d, main rule, with a scale, upon which the slide 6, rigidly attached to the neck-rule f f, moves. 9 is a slide moving on the rule 0, which formsascrew-pivot to suspend the dart 2', which has a slot, j, in its upper end, so that the dart may be raised or lowered, and have a pendulum motion on the pivot g. k is a guide attached to the waist-rule Z, and maybe raised or lowered on the strip a; l, waist-rule, with a scale. The curved arm-rule n is rigidly affixed to one end of the chest-rule 0,-in which ithere'is the slot 0,to suspend, by'means of ;the pivot q, the side-rule 10-branch of p p".

Back: I11 Fig. 2, a is a straight strip in the pattern,forming the center or the back of the garment, with a scale on its lower'end. I) is a guide attached to a, in which the chest-rule 0 slides c, chest-rule, with a'scale; d, shoulder-rule, having a scale; a, arm -rule,'with the slot 0 -0, d, ande' being in one piece; The armrule e suspends, by means of the pivots pp in the slot 0, the side-rule f and bacl'c-l rule g. Slide his firmly affixed to the waist-- rule 2', provided with a scale; j'?, extension g extension, by means of slots 0 k,'guide, is firmly affixed to the neck-rule l, andslides upon the shoulder-rule d.

Sleeve: In Fig. 3, a represents the strip which shows the inside length of the sleeve, and which is jointed at b, so that it can be folded together. The outside length of the sleeve is shown by the three pieces 0 d 0, all of which are pivoted together at f, and can be adjusted in and out in the slot gin the end of the cross-bar h, so as to form awider or narrower sleeve, as may be desired, at the elbow. Two of these pieces give the outside line of the sleeve alone, while the third one can be swung downward, so as to give the outline for a wide or flowing sleeve. Sliding on the lower end of the strip a is a guide, 13, having a scale marked on its outer end, so as to show the width of the-sleeve to be cut. On the strip a, at both ends, is also a scale, to show the length of the sleeve. Sliding on the upper end of the bar a are two bars, j k, curved in opposite directions, slotted at their inner ends, so as to be lengthened or shortened, and having scales on their outer ends, by which to adjust the bar which gives the outside line of the sleeve. The bar j, which curves upward, gives the measure for the top of the sleeve, and the other one, curving downward, gives the measure for the under part of the sleeve.

This pattern can be used for cutting the sleeves for both ladies and gentlemens garments.

Method of using the above-described patterns: Three measurements are taken from a persons figure. First, the shoulder-measure. This is taken by measuring with a tape-line from the center of the back of the neck, and brought forward over the shoulder and under the arm, back to the place of starting. The next measure is from the armpit down to the waist, and the last measure is the girdle of the Waist.

Example for Fig. 1: 1f the shoulder-measure be twenty-five inches, that from the armpit to the Waist seven and one-half inches, and round the Waist twenty-four inches set the outside edge of the shoulder-rule f f to 25 on the rule (I, and the outer edge of the rule a at 25 on rule 0; then mark 0% bythe rule Zthe darts 1', according to taste and style of garment required. The lower edge of the Waist-rule lis set on rule a to correspond with the measure from armpit to Waist, seven and one-half inches, as above given and the distance of the upper end of rule in slot at 0 is governed by the actual size of the waist.

Example for Fig. 2: Set the rule 0', with the figures thereon corresponding to the number of inches contained on the shoulder-measure, twenty-five inches, as above described, to the outer edge of the rule a; next set the rule Z with its upper edge agreeing with the corre sponding figure in the rule at,- then adjust the rule z, its lower edge agreeing with the corresponding figure on the rule a, with the length in inches from the armpit to the Waist, seven and one-half inches as described. Set the upper end oi the back-rule g on the first number in rule e,.and the outer edge of thesiderule f to agree with the mark on the rule 2 as found by the table of measurements. 'The sub-extensions of f g are arranged to suit the taste and style for cutting basques.

Having thus described my invention, I claim- 1. In an adjustable pattern for cuttingthe front of a female garment, the combination of the center rule a, adjustable upon the chestrule 0, main rule d neck-and-shoulder rule f, dart '5, rule 15, and rods 19 12 the parts being adjustable upon one another, substantially as shown. 2. An adjustablepatternforcuttingthe back of a female garment, consisting of the center bar a, rule a, shoulder-rule d arm-rule e backrules f g ,'bottom-rule 41, and neck-rule 1, substantially as described.

3. An adjustable pattern for cutttin g sleeves for female garments, consisting of the bars a 0, guide 1, cross-bar h, rules j 70, and rods 01 or e, substantially as specified.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing 1 have hereunto set my hand this 22d day of March, 187 6.

U. L. WEBSTER.

. Witnesses:

ROBERT M. BARR, W. T. JOHNSON. 

